Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Via Rail: The Canadian





I awoke this morning to a very loud announcement making the second call to breakfast. When I raised the blind to look outside, I was nearly blinded by white. We were nearing Saskatoon in a snowstorm and the sky was nearly as white as the vast expanse of snow-covered Saskatchewan farmland.

We boarded the train at 5 p.m. yesterday after 48 hours in Jasper. Sunday, we rented a car and drove the Icefields Parkway along the Continental Divide through Jasper and Banff National Parks. We made a few scenic stops, including one at Lake Louise where skiers were crossing the frozen lake while teenagers played ice hockey. We had lunch and walked the streets of Banff Town before making the three hour drive back to Jasper for an excellent dinner at Evil Dave's Grill.

Sunday, Scott and I went for a cross country ski up Mt. Edith Cavell Road; Dad and Liz walked for an hour and returned to the trailhead to pick us up in time to shower, return skis and rental car and board the train. It was good to get the blood flowing before settling in for three more nights and two days on the train.

We signed up for the late dinner sitting and enjoyed drinks in our room as we watched the last of the Rockies go by in the waning daylight. My steak was melt-in-your mouth tender and the halibut was tender and flaky. I was eager for bed after getting up early three days in a row, but Scott stayed in the dome of the Park Car until after midnight, enjoying the solitude and quiet rocking of the train.

This train is much quieter than the first, with fewer passengers and a helpful but not overbearing staff. We made a brief stop during lunch in Melville for a train crew change. We lose the service staff tonight when we arrive in their home base of Winnipeg—too bad because we really like them.

This afternoon we get to sample Canadian wines and cheeses in the Park Car. The sun got really bright for a couple hours, but today has been a steady stream of white. It looks quite inhospitable outside!

Saturday, February 14, 2009

VIA Rail: Day One




The champagne flowed in the dome of the Park Car as the train rolled out of Vancouver Station at 8:30 p.m. We enjoyed the nighttime view as the train crept through the city under a nearly full moon and were later rocked to sleep by the steady motion.

We arrived in Vancouver without incident and met my dad and Liz, who arrived over an hour ahead of us, at the airport. We took a cab to the train station to check our luggage, then the Skytrain two stops to Granville Street to do some banking, have lunch, and stock up on liquor for the road, er, I mean rail. We made a brief tour of Stanley Park and enjoyed drinks and an early dinner at the Fish House overlooking the bay and the sunset. The bus delivered us back at the station in plenty of time to enjoy the Silver and Blue lounge prior to boarding the train.

We always try to give still-valid bus passes to needy passengers and got "Ay, I have a dog, ay," as a response to the first offer--translated to mean, "How the fuck am I going to use that? I have a dog!" A moment later, though, we heard, "Ay, thanks, ay!"

We awoke this morning when the train stopped in Kamloops in the still-dark pre-dawn. We had breakfast in the dining car with a retired couple from Arkansas. He was a defense attorney for part of his career, so he and Scott had lots to talk about. Many Southerners on the train including a woman about my age who is a prosecutor in Aniston, Alabama, traveling with her mother. Two older gentlemen from Rome, Georgia brought back a lot of college memories.

We spent much of the day in the dome when we could get seats, enjoying the view as we approached the Rockies. We were a bit disappointed to arrive in Jasper 40 minutes early.

Here are some shots from today's journey. Tomorrow we drive the Icefields Parkway to Banff. Monday we'll cross country ski at Maligne Lake before getting back on the train to continue across the prairie to Toronto.

Sunday, February 1, 2009

A few shots from today's snowshoe outing...



Patrick, Craig, Scott and I tried to get to Elk Meadows on the east side of Mt. Hood.

Cascade Cream Puff

Cascade Cream Puff
At the early morning start