Rimrock Wall
Tucker at the Alvord Desert
Alvord Hot Springs
Camp 2
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Got up at 6:30--not hard when you go to bed before 10 (when it's cold and dark, getting in the sleeping bag seems like the most logical thing to do). Made a hearty breakfast of bacon and eggs, then packed up camp. Since today's hike leaves right from the campground, I leave some things hanging out to dry and the kitchen set up to have lunch after hiking.
My original plan was to hike from South Steens Campground, but rumor had it you couldn't get up there and it was awfully convenient to have a trail right from camp. So Tucker and I set off up the Donner and Blitzen River trail. The trail (or more appropriately, goat path) followed this swift but gentle stream along sagebrush benches, through pine and juniper forest, and over rock slides for four miles to a difficult stream crossing. The warm sun was more than welcome and I was soon hiking in short sleeves and wishing I had worn a hat.
Right away we saw several mule deer on the far bank. Ducks were plenty, especially in a marshy section about a half mile in, much to Tucker's delight. He went after one and refused to come when I called, resulting in hiking on-leash for the next hour and damping the fun for both of us.
During a particularly challenging rock slide scramble, I realized that we were nearly halfway up the canyon wall and it would be easy to top out and traverse the ridge upstream for a while. On top, we hiked through grass and sage toward an interesting rimrock wall, then headed upstream and made our way back down to the river path. On the return trip we saw a snake--the first of three during the week. The best part was not seeing a soul on the entire hike!
Back at camp, our nice sunny day was coming to an abrupt end. The wind was whipping and the dark cloud ahead assured rain in the near future. I finished lunch and loaded the car just as cold rain began pelting the campground. We bolted out of Page Springs, headed south for the requisite milkshake at Fields Station, a combination gas station, general store and cafe, and the only commercial venture in this tiny burg just 20 miles north of the Nevada border. The drive was gorgeous and there was no traffic! And it was blessedly warmer and drier.
After a thick and rick chocolate shake, we drove north up the east face of Steens Mountain to the Alvord Desert. Along the way I admired the flat desert-like environ stretching out from the base of the massive Steens fault block and wondered how I would know when I arrived at the Alvord. Minutes later, I crested a hill and, Wow! An expanse of pancake flat alkaline basin shimmered in the sun below. I turned off on a tiny dirt track and drove right down to the edge of the desert. Although it turns to a slick mess when wet, you can drive right out onto it when dry. Tucker was mystified at first, then ran about like a mad man celebrating this new discovery.
Just a couple miles north, I reached my destination, Alvord Hot Springs. After seeing practically no one all day, it seemed ironic that there was a Subaru from Portland parked in front of the tin shed surrounding the steaming pools. After a soothing soak, I camped with Eric and Jessica in the sagebrush in a dirt turnout just across the gravel road from the hot springs. Turns out they live just a mile or so from my house.
Thunderstorms and rain showers were visible in the distance in all directions. Camp was dry but windy. A cold Ninkasi red ale was so refreshing in the late afternoon sun! Tucker and I took a short hike up the hill behind our campsite for better views of the Alvord and the setting sun. The wind finally abated, inviting the mosquitoes out for a feast.
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